GARDEN LAYOUT 101
by Anita Sands HernandezTHE SHAPE or LAYOUT OF THE DESIGN should be 'natural,' meandering paths, shaped organically,
rounded, so you don't always see what's straight ahead. So that you have surprises as you round a bend.
PATHS of POURED CONCRETE TO EMULATE FLAGSTONE
and gravel in the spaces between!
NARROW PATHS work as long as edges are deliniated.
Imagine a nice FAT gardenia bush blooming in that central area!INNOVATION
http://deviantdeziner.blogspot.com/2007/06/visit-to-pina-colada-garden.htmlTHE DRAMA OF ANTIDELUVIAN PLANTS - These and CYCADS
.
SOMETIMES YOU CANNOT TELL MEN CREATED the GARDEN ---the area seems so natural, as if the paths were just spaces between the plants (BELOW) but the spaces invite one to walk the area as they've been paved with stones or (preferably,) organic mulch or bark. Plain Dirt would not be so inviting to walk on. I don't like pretty stones or granite or anything hard as it sinks into the ground and disappears, is costly. Better is, pick an organic material that will rot down & mulch into the path earth over time. Then you can use your MULCHER SHOVEL to spread the path on the beds, and lay down more mulch.
I sometimes think great designers tend to overthink things greatly They feel they have to make the design convoluted, so you can hang it on the wall and they feel they will get paid more the more squirrely it is.
PATHS AND BEDS ARE FIRST.
To do them, just take a bag of lime or white fertilizer, ammonium nitrate, whatever's white and nutritious, and walk your bare land (NOTE: Do this once the LAWN has been taken off) Do a Hansel and Gretel crumb-drip as you go. See the sweeping beds you created. The ones next to fences are at least 3 to 6' feet across (depending on how big your garden is,) but they can vary. ORGANIC swooping circular shapes are more pleasing than square rectangulars. LAY LOGS end to end to deliniate the beds. Cut a trough to set them in so they don't move. These are twice the width necessary for flower or vegie beds. Scout down thinner logs. Bury bottom inch in a trough and raise the soil inside the bed to top of log.Do paths that you think would be organic for someone exiting the house and going to see what was out there. Then get your team and shovel them up. LIterally up as you PILE the soil in the bed area, vacate the soil on path area. You are going to build edgings and have raised beds
THE WORK ITSELF. Your path and bed designs would take a TEAM to do. WORKERS are needed. Now if there's no money on hand, and that's always been the case for me, YOU and just ONE other worker, preferably a KID who'll work for under 5$ an hour. It's hard to hand over 40$ to your own kid at the end of the day but it's worth it in the end. This 8 hour day will teach him WORK IS DOABLE, a lesson he'll carry with him when he has a wife and children. Or if you want to spend 80$ to 100$ a day, get a LATINO at Home Depot parking lot. But you better have a home
security system once a LATINO works for you.
Si Senora. HokeyDokey!
whatever she wants....
long as I get my 80 dollar
a day and my tacos and coffee!THE FOOD GARDEN CAN BE DECORATIVE AND PRODUCTIVE
BEFORE YOU PLAN A PATH, COUNT THE STONES
Paver bricks are not cheap. Maybe you want to collect broken cement chunks from alleys for a few years. Boulders rocks exist in nature. Back the truck up to a mountain. Last resort: price stones at the local wholesale yards. It would be a good idea to get a pal with a resale number to buy them for you. My gal pal was starting a design biz, went to city hall, got her license and resale number and pleaded poverty. Said "I'm just starting" so they charged her no money for anything. They let her go on the fees! She still has that resale number. There are cement bits in alleys that you can use for paving, mickey mousing the space. They are of uneven size, shape, actually better for EDGING of beds as you can drystack the stuff and it looks fairly organic.
When I drystack cement I do it less than a
foot tall, for edgings of beds. This looks
more like a fence. Just do edging. LESS DANGEROUS.
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